Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan: Two Weeks through the Silk Road

I know things changed ages ago but I can’t start talking about Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan or any other Central Asian country without mentioning the USSR. As a matter of fact, the Soviet Union had already disintegrated by the time I started reading books. Nevertheless, the intellectual and cultural impact of the Soviet era was still visible in the 90s India. In spite of our colonial history and anglicised educational system, Soviet era books were widely available, that too translated into all major Indian languages. During my school days, there were many such books in Assamese that I could find even in the small provincial towns I grew up in. There were also many Soviet Travelogues by local writers, who had a chance to visit the fabled land (for their generation) in the 60s as a part of cultural exchange programs.

A lot of water has flown through Volga, Ganga, and Oxus since then and while mainland Russia still remains in the bucket least, I finally managed to get a slice of it by visiting Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan over 17 days in April. Since there is a lot to share, I will have to write several posts. In this preliminary post I am trying to provide details of every day of the trip in a chronological manner to keep it simple if anyone is planning the trip by reading this.

Preparation and Planning

The plan had been going on for a couple of months. We were six people to start with although later on the group dispersed as everyone has different plans and also a different number of days at hand. So, six of us started from Delhi while two of us returned to Delhi at the end of 18 days ( the rest had returned earlier).

Other Central Asian Countries were also considered but eventually I preferred these two countries because they are more touristy, affordable and the visa process seemed the simplest. In fact, Kazakhstan is Visa Free for Indian tourists and Uzbekistan Visa was issued online without any hassle.

Also, Delhi nowadays has direct flights to Almaty and Tashkent. So, the plan was the reach Almaty from Delhi, cross over to Uzbekistan form Kazakhstan and eventually return from Tashkent.

Day 0 Reaching Almaty

So, I started the morning from Guwahati and reached Delhi by noon where I met the rest of the people coming from Kolkata and Mumbai. The flight to Almaty was at around 9 PM. So, we fooled around at the lounge for several hours.

Boarding formalities were efficient and simple (Kazakhstan is also visa free) and the flight started on time. The flight was mostly full of Indian passengers, including tourists, students (many Indians go for medical studies in ex Soviet states), and some local businessmen.

I had the window seat although I did not specify my preferred seat while booking to save money. It was midnight but the whole prospect of flying over so many iconic mountain ranges didn’t fail to excite me. Within an hour or so, we probably crossed the Indian plains and after that the plane started flying over desolated territories. I could vaguely see snowy mountains glistening under moonlight at times although it was just not bright enough to click pictures. At times I could also see lights, probably crossing some city in Xinjiang (will get there someday), but those luminous groves were few and far between. Eventually we landed after slightly more than two hours. Yes, it was not that far anyway. 

It was past 1 am and thankfully the immigration was quick and simple. The airport itself was small and seemed like a small town Indian airport with only Indians roaming around at that unearthly hour.

As we came out of the air conditioned airport, a gust of icy wind shook us out of our comfort zone and reminded us that we have indeed reached a different land. Half a dozen drivers pounced on us, offering their services while one of us got some currency exchanged.

The bargaining took longer than we expected due to the language barrier. One driver also asked the guys to take one can and the girls to take another, not sure why. Anyway we managed to avoid that and finally started moving. There was a light drizzle and it was reasonably cold outside. We had booked an apartment for the first night but soon we figured out that it was not easy to locate. We reached the location shown on Yandex Map but the owner was asleep and not picking up the call. The numbering of the buildings looked confusing while the cabs wanted their dues cleared quickly as it was too late.

Anyway, after some random check, we luckily spotted the house with the correct number and got in. The key was already there hidden in a small box by the side of the door (as instructed by the owner earlier) and so, we finally managed to get in and retired for the night.

Day 1 First Day in Almaty

At least some of us woke up early enough. We had nothing to eat, and only one person had exchanged money at the airport. So, I and Sushobhan just went out and started enjoying the spacious, well planned promenades, fragrant gardens, broad pavements, fresh air, minimal traffic, and other such delights of low population density and homogeneous culture, something that South Asians crave for, while ironically being a part of the same dense population that makes it impossible.

Almaty is in fact a pretty modern city, a bit too well maintained to feel real. Over the next four days, we found Almaty to be an endless matrix of tulip patches crisscrossed with spacious roads, with a few buildings sprinkled all over for humans.

We photographed a few Soviet era Brutalist edifices, noticed a cinema hall, and walked past some departmental stores. We saw a couple of money exchanges but they were yet to open. Eventually, we saw an ATM. We were not sure if our cards were going to work but they did!

So, equipped with Tenges (and Google translate), we confidently entered a shop and bought some instant noodles and one of those big round Central Asian breads and returned home for breakfast. All homes seem to have piped gas connection here, which is not surprising considering Kazakhstan has huge natural gas reserves.

Anyway, after a quick breakfast, we came out to explore the city. The Ascension Cathedral seemed to be the nearest attraction and we got there soon enough. Now, Kazakhstan is an Islamic country but religious displays are less overt and this delightful Ascension Cathedral is the first attraction we ended up visiting. Built in 1907, it is a remarkable feat of Orthodox architecture which is apparently built without nails. 

We soon realised that this church is located in the Panfilov park, that also has a war memorial. As a matter of fact, the story of the 28 Panfilov Guardsmen during World War II was not entirely factual and must have been made up to encourage a struggling population. Anyway, the iconic war memorial is a great example of classic soviet era sculpture that has been maintained there even after the disintegration of the USSR. This also shows the difference between Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan in a way. The former seems closer to Russia while Uzbekistan probably looks southwards for inspiration.

There was a small museum of musical instruments in the same park but I decided to avoid it as the ticket felt a bit exorbitant at 1500 KZT. I was proven right the next day as we visited the much larger Central State Museum for only 500 KZT.

Later that day, we visited the Green Bazar, a bustling marketplace which delighted some of my companions but somehow I am not a big fan of crowded marketplaces and at that point, two of us decided to return to the apartment and then shift to the hostel for the night (we were shifting to the hostel for the next few days). 

We took the metro to reach out hostel which was a bit far away. Although Almaty Metro is relatively new, I think it is inspired by older Soviet era metros. Especially, the escalator is designed in such a manner that it feels like getting into some Soviet Era shelter house. 

Anyway, we had a long day ahead so retired quickly at our hostel which also looked like a miniature castle. 

Day 2 Lakes and Canyons

This day was the only day we had planned in advance. It is possible to just try one’s luck and hitchhike but with our fixed schedule and language barrier, we could not have afforded a failed day. So, we played it safe and booked a tour that we found online. In fact, our group got divided and two of us were on this cheaper day tour while the rest had taken a tour with a different operator covering the same places but at a more leisurely pace and with a night stay in a village.

We woke up at around 5 AM and were picked up by the operator. It was also a clearer day compared to the previous one as I could see some snowy peaks on the horizon even from our hostel gate. The vehicle stopped at a few other points in the city to pick other tourists and soon we were off towards Charyn Canyon. The roads were smooth with limited traffic. So, it didn’t take much time for us to cover the 215 KMs and it was followed by a walk through the canyon for about an hour to reach the Charyn riverbank. After a brief stay, we were picked up by an official vehicle and returned back to the same point (the canyon is wide enough for these dedicated vehicles to drive through).

It is possible to go deeper and spend more time here but our day trip had time for this only. Anyway, we moved fast towards Kaindy Lake. Formed in 1911 following a massive earthquake that triggered a landslide, Kaindy Lake is famously known for its submerged forest of spruce trees that still stand upright beneath its turquoise waters. It is possible to simply drive and then hike for 10 minutes to reach this lake while there is an alternate route for riding the horses that requires extra payment. We preferred the simple hike and enjoyed the views that are somewhat reminiscent of Tsongestar Tso in Tawang.

After that we drove to the beautiful Saty Village where our food lunch had been organized. There were speretate options for vegan, chicken, and horse meat with rice, salads, and cheese, all aesthetically presented. It was an enjoyable meal as I had somewhat struggled with the food on the previous days. 

Kolsai Lakes are not far from Saty.  While these are a series of alpine lakes, with limited time, we visited the main Lake, i.e. the Kolsai 1. It is somewhat bigger and more picturesque than Kaindy but I also felt that this area is a bit too developed with stairs going down to the lake from the hilltop. It is indeed picturesque and the other side is thickly forested. But I wish it was just a jungle trail with less people. Actually there are more lakes beyond thsibone but on a limited day trip, we had time for one only.

Anyway, we ticked all the boxes for the day and the car dropped us back near the hostel. After a tiresome day, we just prepared some cup noodles and went to sleep.

Day 3 Of Museums & Parks

After two whirlwind days, we decided to take these couple of days easy, do less and just soak in the vibes of Almaty. Rest of the group was supposed to rejoin us at the end of the day. So, we just went out for some local sightseeing. The museum seemed the closest major attraction and so, we started walking towards it. Following the shortest route on the map, we entered a residential area. These buildings, not particularly photogenic, looked like old government colonies you easily find in the Indian cities but they also had the tulip groves add a bit of colour.

After crossing that stretch we suddenly reached the highway, along with a big new mall. The foodcourt of the mall had a few surprises including a vegan restaurant and an Indian restaurant, along with a dozen other options. Post lunch, we started walking towards the museum but soon we realized that we have to pass through the First President’s Park, which was ablaze with tulips of varied colours. 

We finally reached the Central State Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan that was visible even from a distance with its grand neo classical building, It houses an extensive collection of artifacts, maps, paintings and exhibits detailing Kazakhstan’s nomadic traditions, its pivotal role in the Silk Road trade routes, and its diverse ethnic groups. 

After spending a couple of hours at the museum, we walked back to our hostel and the rest of the group that had spent the day in the Saty Village. More importantly, a group of Swiss tourists in our hostel told us that they’d cooked some pasta but it was more than they could consume. So, we had to take the rest to prevent wastage. There’s no such thing as a free lunch but I didn’t mind the free dinner and fell asleep soon. 

Day 4 Botanical Garden & Ballet

This was the last day in Almaty. We had a train night to Shymkent, one of the first things we booked from home even before our hotels. We decided to have a relaxed day. Some of our group wanted to watch a ballet, which was indeed a culturally superior activity that I wanted to do. However, that meant catching the ballet in the evening, rushing back to the hostel to collect the luggage, and then rushing to the railway station again, with a slight chance of missing the train itself (all the locations were a bit far from each other).

In hindsight, I should have done it as those who went for it managed to return on time although I was expecting them to miss the train. So, if somebody is planning, I will recommend it. Anyway, we eventually took a leisurely walk to the Botanical Garden, which was not too far away from the hostel.

It did turn out to be a pleasant activity. In fact, it again reminded me of a Soviet children’s book from schooldays which had pictures of a botanical garden in Moscow. This one was probably not as big but had enough to walk around and spend the whole day. Being spring, it was also full of various blossoms. Spanning over 108 hectares at the foothills of the Tian Shan mountains, it showcases a diverse array of flora native to Kazakhstan and other regions. 

In the evening, we reached the Almaty Railway Station before the ballet gang. In fact, this was another culture-shock for us as it is almost unimaginable to see a train station so uncrowded. There were barely a handful of people and it is not surprising as there are very few trains running throughout the day. We noticed that the station also has many useful facilities including foreign exchange. 

Now, this train was interesting for various reasons. Four of us had one compartment. These are somewhat like 1st Class that some Indian Trains have, but the cost was only slightly more than sleeper class here. On the flip side, they seemed to be very economical with the AC. It felt warmer than outside and the compartment was also a bit on the smaller side. I wonder how large Central Asians fit into these! Anyway, we were tired and we fell asleep soon.

Day 5 Wild Tulips of Karatau

It was going to be an eventful day but we were still inside the train. We weren’t even sure if food was available inside the train but we were told that there is a dining car. So, after a long walk through several compartments, we finally found it. Actually it was a bit fancier than expected. I have seen such dining cars in old Indian films but gradually they were removed from Indian trains as the focus was more on catering to astronomical numbers of passengers. So, it was great to find one here and we spent an hour enjoying some pancakes and coffee as the train passed through the open pastures of southern Kazakhstan.

Eventually the train reached Shymkent at around 11 AM and Islam, our guide for the day, was waiting for us already. So, the program for the day was to spot wild tulips. Yes, even we were unaware of this but it was suggested to us while we were enquiring about other hikes. 

Kazakhstan is technically the birthplace of Tulips. While we saw plenty of them in Almaty, those were the ones cultivated by humans for decorative purposes. We wanted to see them in the wild, in their original form. So, we drove to the Karatau Mountains directly, crossing lush open, uninhabited meadows that our guides compared to the classic windows wallpaper.

After a couplenof hours we left the smooth road and took an unpaved road to climb higher up the hills and suddenly, we entered the florist’s Elysium! There were the tulips as far as we could see but these were not the tulips we were familiar with. These wild varieties were shorter, blooming closer to the ground, turning the hills into multicolored rugs… maybe this is how rug making became an art in these regions. 

There were also a few interesting petroglyphs amidst the tulips. These reminded me of the ones that are scattered along the Indus in Ladakh. I think all these artifacts came up during the Silk Road activities of the previous millenia. There’s much more to write about them.

Day 6 Shymkent to Turkestan

This was practically our last day in Kazakhstan. We still had one major thing to visit in Shymkent, i.e. Turkestan. The archaeological sites of Turkestan are a couple of hours away from Shymkent. Instead of booking any tours, we choose to do it through public transport. So, we got into a shared vehicle along with a lot of local people.

This is practically a desert area and Turkistan is practically an oasis. However, what I wasn’t prepared for was to find a modern city in the middle of this desert. My mental image of Turkistan was that of a few scattered monuments in a hostile desert. However, they seemed to have built a new city here around the archaeological complex.

We roamed around the complex visiting various structures but to be honest, it was somewhat underwhelming considering the fact that vast portions of the main mausoleum was not accessible to tourists due to renovation. The best part here are the patterns on the outer walls and if you have the patience, it will reward you with some great frames.

Just besides the monument, there is a bunch of modern buildings including supermarkets, amusement parks and universities. We went inside a supermarket and while we expected it to be more expensive that the rest, it turned out to be even cheaper than the neighborhood stores we’d seen so far! We bought some precooked rice and vegetables and noticed microwaves installed in the sitting area to warm them up. At this store, we also found the cheapest beer of the tour, the same can we bought the previous day, but now at 66 cents.

After spending the whole day, we called a cab that dropped us at a spot where we found another shared car back to Shymkent. After a tiring day, we just retired with some cup noodles and beer.

Day 7 Kazakhstan to Uzbekistan Border Crossing

For some reason, we ended up making a very hectic plan for this day. All we had to do was to cross the border, which was not too far. But we also planned to reach Samarkand on the same day to save time.

So, after breakfast, we reluctantly checked out of our rooms and took a cab to the taxi stand which was around 6 KMs away from the city. Here, initially we were ambushed by a few cab owners quoting exorbitant prices. Probably they had luxurious cars and were not taking any additional passengers. Anyway, we continued our search and eventually found the most budget ones.

This trip took barely 1.5 hrs through mostly barren surroundings and the only interesting thing I saw was a Wai Wai factory. It is a Nepali brand and I was glad to see it expanding into uncharted territories.

Eventually we reached the Zibek Jholy border which looked somewhat unkempt compared to the rest of the country we have seen so far. There were several money exchanges where we exchanged out last few Kazakh Tenges to Uzbek Soms and then followed the usual process, which was mostly straightforward and we were not asked too many questions. Only at one point the checking guys asked about “big dollars”, i.e. if we were carrying large amount of USDs but at least Inwas not rich enough for that anyway.

The other side of the border was livelier with more people and a lot of eateries, and shops providing SIM cards and money exchanges. Everyone got Uzbek SIMs here and we also had some food. Eventually, we saw a bus to Tashkent and hopped into it and reached the city in 45 minutes.

The bus had left us near a metro station. So, we took that metro and reached the metro near the Railway Station to catch our train to Samarkand, shicj was an high speed Afrosyob train. But what’s the meaning of this odd name Afrosyob? Well, I found that out the next day.

At this point we withdrew some money at an ATM. Read more about it here.

Anyway, we reached at around 11 pm and took a cab to our homestay which was located deep inside the old town. We got the room but most of the eateries had shut by that time. However, after some random walk through the dark alleys, we reached a somewhat lively area (we later figured it out to be a part of the main heritage area leading to the Registan Square. Anyway, we found one shop that was still open and got some food too. We bought some cup noodles on the way back and had that at room and called it a day.

Day 8 Samarkand Relic Hunting

This was one of the most hectic days of the tour for me, simply because we ended up with only one day in Samarkand and had to catch the train that night itself. (I’d suggest everyone to keep more time for this city). 

We decided to give up on Shahrisabz, which is around 87 kms away, and explore whatever we could for the rest of the city. The group got dispersed again and two of us decided to explore on ourbown, mostly walking and avoiding cabs, and ended up covering around 20 KMs that day.

Samarkand is an ancient Silk Road city that is probably the largest in Uzbekistan in terms of monuments and other attractions for tourists. After breakfast at the homestay, we quickly walked to the nearby Registan Square. It is a mesmerizing ensemble of grand madrasahs adorned with intricate tilework and towering minarets, symbolizing the city’s cultural and intellectual legacy. The ticket to get a closer look of the monuments is UZS 65000 (the rates have been raised recently). However, it is possible to simply view and photograph them from a platform built just in front of the compound.

We also visited a few other monuments following whatever the Yandex Maps led us to, including the Amir Temur Mausoleum and the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, with their colossal turquoise domes and vast courtyards, offered a glimpse into the architectural prowess of Timurid craftsmen. 

Later in the afternoon, we walked under blazing sun to Afrosyob, located on the outskirts of Samarkand in Uzbekistan. We had taken the Afrosyob train earlier, now we know that the train is named after this archaeological site that thrived during the early medieval period, particularly from the 4th to the 7th centuries CE. The site offers invaluable insights into the urban planning and daily life of the Sogdian civilization, a key player in the Silk Road trade network. Excavations at Afrosyob have revealed well-preserved residential quarters, ornate frescoes, and a complex system of irrigation that underscores the sophistication of Sogdian engineering and artistry. Most of the important artifacts are now preserved in the museum on the location, which is what we visited. It is possible to roam around the deserted excavation site too but it was too sunny for that.

After Afrosyob, we walked to the Ulugh Begh observatory and museum. Beg was a grandson of Temur, and unlike his ancestors, he was more of a scholar. He built this observatory for astronomical studies (somewhat like Jantar Mantars in India but even older). Only some parts of the original observatory has been restored.

We walked back to the Shah-i-Zinda necropolis, one of the most uplifting graveyards I’ve ever seen. Built stop a hillock, these thickly constructed mausoleums at times may also reminds one of even more ancient structures of Mesopotamia. Probably the most photogenic of all monuments, it was naturally full of people getting themselves clicked including a Bangladeshi girl in a red saree (will she ever seen this blog?). 

Anyway, we returned later at night to the Registan square for the light and sound show. After this point only two of us were supposed to go further as the rest didn’t have enough leaves. So, we bad adieu to the rest and moved to the railway station for the train to Khiva. 

Before going further, here I must mention one thing that the entry tickets have been revised all over Uzbekistan recently and the prices have increased by 25-40% at various places. This may be an issue for Samarkand. 

Day 9 Khiva Explorations

We reached Khiva in the morning and reached the homestay turned hostel which was located behind the iconic walled city of Khiva.

Our time in Khiva was limited due to nature of the trip and I couldn’t do justice to it. These below par frames should give you some idea about the city literally in the middle of the desert. The Ichan Kala, the Old City of Khiva is also an UNESCO world heritage site with nunerous domes, minarets, palaces, and mosques, all with their unique stories.I think, if the Indus Valley ruins are rebuilt faithfully, they’ll look like this. 

This stunning ensemble of Islamic architecture includes the impressive Kalta Minor Minaret, renowned for its vibrant blue tiles and unfinished grandeur. The Kunya-Ark Citadel, once a royal residence, provides insight into Khiva’s storied past. The Juma Mosque, with its 213 wooden columns and intricate carvings. Will return with more detailed writings as there’s much to write about. There was some dance festival going on too, so we managed to catch that towards the night too.

One thing to note here is that there’s a hefty entry fee to the old city but we entered through the smaller southern gate where no one asked for it (there are four gates on four sides). I suggest you take the help of your hotel/homestay owners in this regard. 

Day 10 Khiva to Bukhara

We woke up early in the morning, had breakfast, and rushed to the rail station. This was going to be a shorter day ride but this turned out to be a difficult one. I have already mentioned the issue with AC in these trains. Till now we had mostly travelled at night. But this was a day ride through a blazing desert with no respite. I think April is officially not summer yet and that is why they are reluctant to turn on the AC for bureaucratic reasons. The landscape was also barren and apparently the train crossed the iconic Syrdariya (Oxus), the cradle of many civilizations. However, it was barely there, almost dried up. Maybe be this is how Saraswati disappeared!

Anyway, we reached Bukhara in the afternoon and reached our hotel, which was not very far from the main heritage area of Bukhara. That night, we found an Indian restaurant, complete with larger than life posters of southern movie stars, and had some fiery food after a long time. 

Day 11 Bukhara Explorations

Due to our questionable planning, we ended up with a lot of time in Bukhara. So, we decided to take it slow. It had been very hectic so far and it was not something I didn’t enjoy.

We preferred to explore it in the morning and evening, avoiding going out during the noon. We mostly walked around the main heritage area,

Bukhara was a central hub of Uzbekistan’s Silk Road, is renowned for its well-preserved architectural treasures and historical significance. The city’s focal point is the Ark Fortress, a vast and ancient citadel that has served as a royal residence and military stronghold. Adjacent to it stands the Bolo Haouz Mosque, celebrated for its stunning wooden columns and ornate façade. The Registan Square, lined with the majestic Ulugh Beg Madrasah, Mir-i-Arab Madrasah, and Tilla Kari Madrasah, forms an impressive architectural ensemble that highlights Bukhara’s scholarly and religious heritage. 

The historic trading domes, such as the Toki Zargaron and Toki Telpak Furushon, still bustle with life, offering a glimpse into the city’s vibrant marketplace tradition. The Mausoleum of the Samanids, a revered early Islamic monument, and the grand Bukhara Synagogue also contribute to the city’s rich tapestry of cultural and religious diversity, making Bukhara a compelling destination for history and architecture enthusiasts alike.

We left the Ark of Bukhara for the next day as it was going to take time and visited the rest of the monuments in the Old City. Later on, we also entered a store looking for beer but it turned it out to be a store for children’s products but let’s ignore that part. 

Day 12 More Bukhara Explorations

There are several additional monuments in Bukhara that are a bit far off. It wasn’t possible to cover all of them. So, we picked one and took a cab to the mausoleum of Baha’ al-Din Naqshband, founder of Naqshbandi order,one of the major Sufi orders. It was an important shrine with full of local devotees. I enjoyed the open courtyard full of blooming mulberry trees. 

While coming back, I noticed that something called Chor Minor not far from our location. Now, in most Indian languages it is Chor means thief. So, I was hoping for something shadily interesting. But soon, we realised that Chor is equivalent to Indian Char i.e. four. This is basically a small monument with four minarets, the spiritual ancestor of much larger Char Minar in India. 

Later that evening, we finally entered the Arc of Bukhara, an imposing structure not only due to its size but also due to the stories associated with it. The Great Game connoisseurs have probably heard of Connolly and Stoddart, the ill-fated East India company explorers from the early part of the game. They were imprisoned for several years and eventually beheaded here at the Ark! I was looking for some more information about them and eventually I found their portraits in one corner of the museum inside (without details about their gory end). The Arc is also a great place to end the day as one can view the sunset from here on one side while the rest of the monuments are visible on the other.

Later in the evening we returned to the town square for more photographs as the lighting after dark adds a different dimension to the frames. Most of these monuments are also a part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Historic Center of Bukhara”. 

Day 13 Bukhara to Ferghana

This was more of an eventless day where we revisited the heritage area again and had a slow lunch because we had time. Eventually we moved towards the station and caught our train to Kokand in the evening.

Day 14 Kokand Sightseeing

Kokand was one of the major Khanates during the middle ages, which is why I have been aware of this name. This is the major city in Ferghana Valley. Even before we reached the destination in the morning, it got clear from the views that this region is far greener than the deserts we were coming from. In fact, this region was hotly contested by various kingdoms because it was fertile and could feed the entire country. It was also a few degrees cooler than the desert. 

This area is significantly non-touristy compared to the places we had seen so far. We practically could locate only one viable budget hotel that we booked. However, Kokand city is also very well planned and aesthetically maintained like other cities. We spent the day visiting a few scattered attractions, especially the Museum of Great Scholars and the Khudayar Khan Palace, the sprawling abode turned museum of a 19th century ruler. 

Day 15 Andijan

This day was meant for only one place, Andijan, the Birthplace of Babur, the original Mughal. However, as we read up more, we soon figured out that we have to reduce our expectations. The problem is that the historical Andijon was destroyed in an earthquake around a century ago. So, the present city is a modern one with nothing much left from its glory days.

Anyway, we still wanted to simply touch that place and come back. It was the farthest point in that direction, closer to multiple international border crossings with Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan although we didn’t have visas for the same.

We took a bus first to Ferghana Town and then a shared car to Andijan. Here, I must say that I was somewhat underwhelmed as my preconceived notions were proven wrong just like it happened in case of Turkestan. All these smaller cities in Uzbekistan are also well developed and have the same kind of urban planning and so, they also look the same. Apart from the Babur statue, only noteworthy thing was the pumpkin samsa that I enjoyed for lunch before returning back to the hotel in Kokand.

Day 16 Reaching Tashkent from Kokand

We woke up in the morning and rushed to the train station to catch our train back to Tashkent from Kokand.

So far we have mostly been crossing deserts, that too mostly at night, and the weather has been pretty hot and dry. However, the need for epic views and cool weather was fulfilled on our last train ride of this trip from #Ferghana to #Tashkent.

I wasn’t even aware of this and was dozing off but I suddenly woke up, realized the train was moving uphill very slowly, and saw this miraculous change in landscape through the window as we passed through the industrial region around the town of Angren sandwiched between Chatkal and Kurama ranges, visible on both sides.

Eventually we reached Tashkent, and took the metro and still had to walk for almost half an hour. To reach out hostel, the place that I booked only because of its name. 

We spent the evening roaming around the town, without doing much. 

Day 17 Return from Tashkent to Delhi

So, our last day in Uzbekistan was here. The flight was at night. So, we deposited our luggage at the hostel while vacating our beds and came out for the day.

The first target of the day was something that I planned to do the moment I decided to visit this country, to visit the bust of Lal Bahadur Shastriji. We mostly followed the online map and arrived at the right location after some confusion. As a matter of fact, even the street is called Shastri Street.

In case you don’t know, Shastri was a former Prime Minister of India who came here to sign a treaty with Pakistan after the 1965 War but suddenly passed away before he could return. Conspiracy theories are still afloat in India but probably we will never know the details. He was known for his minimalistic lifestyle and ethics. Once he had resigned from his post as Railway minister after an accident. That is why he is revered even now. Another interesting factoid about him is that he shares the same birthday with MK Gandhi.

Several major attractions of Tashkent are located in the same area spread between two three metro stations. So, we started walking towards the museum but came across a vast eat street where we stopped for lunch. Eventually, we did make it to the museum, which was larger and more elaborate than the previous ones we had seen. While there is a lot of things to explore, the most interesting parts for me was the section that displayed the ancient history of Uzbekistan, especially the iconic Buddha from Termez from the Afghanistan border.

We ended the day with a visit to Chorsu Bazor, a large market where we bought some dryfruits to take back home. It actually has a lot of things to explore but buy that time we did not have much energy left and shopping is not my forte anyway. We had an early dinner and returned to the hostel to take our luggage and moved to the airport.

The airport itself was a tiny one, with only one small coffee shop serving people at the departure, which waich was raided by scores of people looking to spend their last remaining soms. 

The process was mostly smooth. We were told that they may check records of each of our hotel stays at the airport. However, no such things were asked. I guess it totally depends on the mood.

Anyway, we took off on time and reached Delhi at around 4 AM.

So, this was more or less for this trip. I will come up with more detailed posts about specific locations as soon as possible.

What to Improve?

Based on my experience, you can keep following things in mind.

• Shymkent deserved another day. We did two detours from SHymkent in two days but had no time left for the city itself.
• I could have spent a day more in Samarkand and nearby attractions like Shahrisabz.
• I could have taken a couple of more days to visit something more remote like Teremez or Nukus. 
• A day in Bukhara could have been reduced but to be honest, I did not mind those leisurely days too. 
• Tashkent also deserved another day.
• A different season will give a different experience. Autumn grape picking and wine season will offer a different experience. Hikes are easier too in this season. There are many local hikes near Almaty that were partially closed due to snow in April. 
• You can also go to Astana, northwards of ALmaty, or go westwards to reach the Caspian. However, these will take several more days and will cost a lot more, so we never considered them.