Afrasiyab Museum: Memories of Sogdiana

I first heard of the word Afrasiyab when someone told us to book the Afrosyob Train, a new, superfast train covering the major cities of Uzbekistan. At that point, I didn’t know much about it, nor did I pay any attention.

Finally, when we boarded the train to Samarkand from Tashkent, my curiosity returned and soon I found out that it is named after the ancient archaeological site of Afrasiyab, a missing link to the forgotten yore of the region, something akin to Dholavira or Mohenjodaro, although comparatively newer. 

Yes, I should have known this anyway and this indicates poor research on my part. As a matter of fact I approached this whole trip in a laidback manner and mostly relying on my friends to book tickets and hotels, only sharing the costs later on. Also, this is comparatively uknown and more iconic medieval monuments overshadow it due to the religio-cultural continuity they enjoy. 

I never thought I will have to write a a whole post on a museum but this compelled me to as the ancient history of this region, which was also connetced to India, had fascinated me from schooldays.

Reaching Afrasiyab 

So, as mentioned in the previous post, we were already in Samarkand and in the morning we explored some of its more famous monuments. As it was getting really hot, we went back to our room and came out again around 3 pm. It was still very hot but we decided to not call a cab and walk towards Afrasiyab.

It is located in the northern parts of Samarkand, around 4.5 KMs away from the touristy Registan Square. We walked under the blazing sun crossing some hillocks on the left where the Shah-I- Zinda and some other mausoleums are located. The unforgiving sun kept chasing us as we reached a point where we left the highway and took an U-turn. 

We realised soon that this settlement was indeed built at a higher ground, probably protected as a citadel, as the walk got more laboured through the gradually ascending path.

I could see the remains of the Afrasiyab on my right. They are mostly desolated mounds now that reminded me of Chambal Ravines now as most of the excavated artifacts have been moved to the museum. The remains can be visited too but we were already tired a lot of things remained to be covered for the day. So, we quickly moved on and reached the swanky museum higher up, bought tickets for 25000 Soms (~$2).

History of Afrasiyab

So, the name apparently comes from the mythical Zorastrian King Afrasiab. To understand this connection, first we need to understand the location.

This area was a part of the larger geographic region of Turan, which covered the bulk of Central Asia but as the name suggests, was under Persian influence. Many smaller kingdoms developed in this region during the ancient times such as Messagetae, Khorazm and Sogd. This area around Samarkand was primarily Sogd/Sogdiana, a civilization that is now forgotten but was once an important part of the Silk Road. Due it’s sheer location, caravans from China, India and rest of the orient passed through it to reach the Arabs and Romans, and vice versa. 

So, the Afrasiyab Museum in Samarkand houses a remarkable collection of artifacts that provide a window into the ancient civilization of Afrasiyab. Among the most significant artifacts are the exquisite 7th-century murals, which are considered masterpieces of Sogdian art. These murals, found in the ruins of a royal palace, vividly depict scenes of royal life, including processions of dignitaries, ambassadors from distant lands, and richly adorned nobles participating in ceremonial activities. The murals also portray hunting scenes and depictions of mythological creatures, highlighting the fusion of local and foreign influences in Sogdian culture. The vibrant colors, intricate details, and symbolic representations offer a fascinating glimpse into the political, social, and religious life of the time. In addition to the murals, the museum preserves various ceramics, coins, and tools that shed light on the trade, craftsmanship, and daily life of the Sogdian people who inhabited Afrasiyab. These artifacts collectively offer a deep insight into the rich history and cultural heritage of Samarkand, reflecting its role as a major hub along the Silk Road.

The Murals are the most interesting parts of Afrasiyab which have been preserved in the museum, although partially destroyed. For ease of the vistors, there is also a small redrawn version placed in front of the original, so as to make everyone understand. These reminded me of the likes of Ajanta Caves, and the Tabo Monastery and Alchi Monastery. Probably inspired by Bactrian and Gandhara art too, Sogdian art flourished till 12th century.  The Kushan empire had influnce till that point as there was one panel listing the major Kushan rulers including Kanishka.

If you spend enough time, you will notice many aspects. There are scenes of Chinese and even Koreans visiting the Sogdiana ruler. But I was more interested in the Indian part. The Indian portion is easily identifiable due to a lot of elephants. According to the descriptions written in the museum, it also features and astrologer (can’t avoid them in India even now) and some pygmy archers. Hard to figure out the ethnicity of the archers but they maybe indicating some indigenous populations of those times. 

The other most important artifact here is the face of a Sogdian warrior, probably part of a lost mural.

End of Afrasiyab 

How did it disappear? Well, like many other cities and kingdoms, it was obliterated by the Mongol Hordes in the 12th century. Samarkand thrived again under new rulers but this part was abandoned and a new city rose on the southern edge. 

Ironically, the new ruler who brought glory and wealth to Samarkand again was Amir Temur/Timur, who is believed to be a descendant of Genghis himself. This region had also been islamized by then and a new civilization flourished here, which still endures even after the Great Game and Soviet rule. 

So, this was more or less it from Afrosiyab with my limited knowledge. We moved on towards Ulugh Beg Madrasah from here but we will discuss it later. 

Also Read:

Two Week Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan